Väaderöoarna (Weather Islands)

Location, 

Beyond the maze of barren skerries of the Fjällbacka archipelago exists a remote rocky cluster of tiny islands that denote the western most point in Sweden. These desolate and unsheltered rocks are colloquially referred to as the Weather Islands as they are exposed to the sunniest, and windiest conditions in West Sweden. Any journey north of Göteborg along the Bohuslän coast must include a stopover at Fjällbacka and an overnight trip to Väderöarna. For comparison sake, the North American latitudinal equivalent of the Weather Islands (at a latitude of 58.5774° N) is Kuujjuaq, the largest northern most village in Nunavik, Quebec, Canada. 

This remote cluster is a short 30 minute ride by the dedicated ferries that depart hourly from the Fjällbacka docks. The check-in point, a Väderöarna labeled hut on the docks, has a dedicated English speaking guide will explain the departure time as well as provide a map of the islands

Quick Tour. 

BELOW: A 1 minute tour of the islands over a 24 hour period. 

Cuisine. 

Väderöarna offers a high quality seafood experience utilizing locally sourced seafood served in the historic pilothouse with adjacent wooden patio built into a rocky outcropping that creates a natural shelter from the wind. The ambient song of the local sea birds serve as the de facto soundtrack. Weather permitting, enjoying the fresh catch of the day outside is highly recommended.

Although this visit occurred in early August, the temperature was not consistently warm and hit a high of approximately 70F. As the summer sun dropped over the horizon, the temperature quickly dropped with it to about 50F. While sheltered from the gusts, a cool sea breeze envelopes the dining area which prompted diners to request wool blankets from the Väderöarna Guesthouse staff. Guests were able to entomb themselves as the light from the Swedish slow motion sunset, which at that latitude took several hours, faded across the skerries. One noticeable feature of the Swedish sun and its counterpart moon is that their arches seem to be flatter as the slowly creep across the sky.    

The Väderöarna Guesthouse and Restaurant offers a rich breakfast and a seasonal 3 course cuisine that reflects the Swedish seafood culture.  A rich breakfast buffet includes everything from freshly made omelets to a variety of fruits, cheeses, cold cereal and Swedish coffee ranging from a smooth mild blend. A seasonal 3 course meal includes This Räksmörgås or a Swedish prawn sandwich with pickled onions, a Swedish cod filet served over young potatoes topped with more prawn and Pannacota topped with a rhubarb/strawberry fruit puree. 

Accommodation. 

Staying on the Weather Islands is best described as an up-scale version of roughing it. The 11 charming and distinctive red fisherman outposts contain a total of 30 total rooms, each of which offers spectacular sea level views. The weathered red guesthouses are placed strategically like little Monopoly homes onto any flat contours of the island rock. All of the wooden structures wear the scars of unobstructed North Sea weather and time.

The accommodations are as quaint and comfortable on the interior as they are rugged and battle tested on the exterior. The nautical themed décor, pitched roof and floor level mattresses provide a cozy camping feel. The cabin was able to shield the heat of the summer sun while maintaining warmth during a cold overnight torrent. As one would likely conclude this off-the-grid location is very self-sufficient and environmentally conscious. Shared bathrooms conserve water and an on-site desalination facility creates fresh water from the sea.

Lagom Relaxation. 

Relax, you’re on Väderö time! Swedish culture is dictated by their notion of lagom, meaning just the right amount or in moderation. To spend a time on Väderöarna, is to step into the lagom relaxation psyche and unwind in nature the Swedish way. It was as if these islands channeled all of the aspects of a high-end spa and put them through a subdued, and non-commercialized filter.

The everlasting summer sun bakes the barren rocks to the perfect lagom temperature for sunbathing. The clean cool waters surrounding Väderöarna, home to an incredibly rich and bio-diverse ecosystem, are perfect for a quick dip. Swimmers beware…the polar August water temperatures keep me largely sidelined while the locals jumped right in.  

An unsophisticated system meandering footpaths, creaky wooden platforms, stairs and ladders offer visitors the opportunity to explore the island’s access points to the water from the rocky slopes. All of these wooden structures wear the scars of unobstructed North Sea weather and time. The natural materials and lack of steel and glass structures fit in with the natural beauty, however, it requires visitors to be aware. 

Take a hike.

The highlight of my 24-hour stay on Väderöarna was navigating the 2-2.5 hour trek around the main island. The truly unique interaction between the raw beauty and the Swedish architecture is the perfect creative backdrop for photographers, explorers and any Wes Anderson fan. The hike provides intimate perspectives of the islands from various elevations and allows you to fully appreciate the pristine rawness of the westernmost point in Sweden. Some points of interest that you will encounter include a maritime carving of a compass rose, a rocky harbor, a series of the grassy gullies, anchialine pools, and the lush tree grotto. During my excursion, the harbor was host to a small fleet of sailboats and yachts flying the Swedish flag, with a few Norwegian ones mixed in. As the western most point in Sweden, you can expect that a few Norwegians will crash the party. 

Rain, Shine, Repeat. 

Make no mistake, the Weather Islands moniker is not a misnomer; the unusually volatile, fickle and unpredictable weather conditions were on full display in less than a day on the islands. Intermittent rain and sun showers take turns blanketing the islands as if operated by a child at a light switch. Make sure to packet a waterproof jacket! Just off the coast the sea has a more notorious reputation, as it has claimed the most shipwrecks in any coastal waters of Sweden. 

A Swedish Moonscape. 

From the initial sea level approach, these Bohuslän coastline rocks appear barren and devoid of native life. Yet further examination from elevated vantage points, reveal an otherworldy Swedish moonscape with an impressive spectrum of colorful vegetation. Despite the very narrow growth window, it seems that the plant life has adapted, accelerated and flourished here. Pink sea thrift takes root in the fissures and crevices in the rocky outcropping; other species such as honeysuckle, Rose hip and Glaucous Dog-rose shelter in depressions and between rocks. Windswept with a touch of salt, this landscape is testament to the resiliency of life on Väderöarna.